* Wave Energy Distribution: Waves approaching a coastline at an angle will refract, or bend, as they encounter shallower water near headlands (projections of land). This bending focuses wave energy towards the headlands, causing erosion and making them even more prominent. Conversely, wave energy is dispersed in the bays between the headlands, leading to deposition of sediments and the formation of beaches.
* Longshore Drift: The refracted waves also cause a longshore current, a movement of water parallel to the shore. This current carries sediments along the coast, contributing to the erosion of headlands and the deposition of sand in bays.
Therefore, instead of evening out the coastline, refraction actually amplifies the irregularities. It creates a feedback loop where headlands erode faster and bays become filled with sand, leading to more pronounced coastline features.
Examples:
* Headlands and Bays: The formation of headlands and bays, common features of irregular coastlines, is directly influenced by wave refraction.
* Sea Cliffs: Refraction contributes to the formation of sea cliffs by concentrating wave energy on the headlands, leading to erosion and cliff formation.
* Sand Spit Formation: Longshore drift, driven by refracted waves, can cause the formation of sand spits and other depositional features.
Overall, refraction doesn't smooth out an irregular coastline; it actually plays a key role in shaping the coastline's irregularities.
