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  • Understanding Memory Wire Sizes and Gauges for Jewelry Making

    By David Dunning, Updated March 24, 2022

    Image credit: C5Media/iStock/GettyImages

    Memory wire—also known as memory or memory wire—is a rigid, pre‑coiled filament that snaps back to its original shape after being bent, twisted, or pulled apart. Jewelers rely on it for beadwork, as well as for crafting necklaces, bracelets, and rings.

    American Wire Gauge (AWG)

    Memory wire thickness is expressed using the American Wire Gauge (AWG) scale. On this scale, a lower gauge number means a thicker wire, while a higher gauge number indicates a finer wire. In practice, the most common gauges for jewelry are 18‑AWG (0.0403 inches) and 20‑AWG (0.0320 inches).

    Choosing the Right Gauge

    Thicker wires such as 16‑AWG are often too heavy for delicate wire‑wrapping, yet they can be employed for bold decorative accents. Conversely, ultra‑thin wires like 22‑AWG or 24‑AWG are too fragile for free‑form shaping and may break under pressure.

    Cutting and Shaping Tips

    Because memory wire is exceptionally stiff, standard jewelry cutters or pliers can become nicked or damaged. Always use dedicated wire cutters and a pair of pliers designed for hard materials when cutting or forming memory wire.

    References

    • Elizabeth Gourley & Ellen Talbott, Quick & Easy Beaded Jewelry (2002).
    • Lynda S. Musante, Exquisite Beaded Jewelry (2004).
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